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State of Veracruz, Mexico


Veracruz, the state with the longest coastline on the Gulf of Mexico, is virtually synonymous with enjoyment, music, dancing, magic and witchcraft. It is set in the east of the country, and borders on Tamaulipas, San Luis Potosí, Hidalgo, Puebla, Oaxaca, Chiapas and Tabasco. Its climate varies according to the region and ranges from hot and humid on the coast to extremely cold in the mountainous areas.
Veracruz was the first port of New Spain and was a major trade link for ships coming from Spain with colonists and returning there laden with gold and treasures. In the 16th Century, the fort of San Juan de Ulúa, visible across the bay from the town, was built to protect the port from pirates and marauders, and was later turned into a prison. The fort can be toured from Tuesday through Sunday, 9am to 5 pm. The city of Veracruz has a typical port feel to it combined with an afro-caribbean rhythm. The Malecon or harbor-side walk, is lined with small shops selling seashell souveniers, embroidered blouses and the and the typical men's guayabera - a light, short-sleeved shirt with small pleats and a straight bottom hem that is worn with no tucking into the pant waistline. Spiffily uniformed sailors stroll the streets portside and music and color infuse the Plaza de Armas, or town square, with life. The Portales or arches that line the sides of the plaza are haven to a series of cafes and bars where vendors hawk their wares and harp and marimba players offer up their tunes. It's a good place to try the local Veracruz coffee, strong and sweet, and the regional drink called menjulep (mint julep!) akin to the Cuban mojito - a refreshing combination of dark rum, dry sherry or vermouth, sugar and crushed mint.
Some of the notable Colonial era buildings of the city include the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, which was built in 1721, the Palacio Municipal, constructed in 1627, the Teatro Clavijero, on Emparán Street, which was originally built of wood in 1700 and reconstructed, after being ravaged by fire, in 1834, and a collection of pre-columbian artifacts and regional arts and crafts is on view at the City Museum (Museo de la Ciudad) located on Ave. Zaragoza.The Baluarte de Santiago (Fortress of Santiago) is the last standing fort of a series of seven that were connected by massive protective walls to protect the city. It is now a small museum.The stately form of Venustiano Carranza lighthouse overlooking the port area gleams brilliantly in the tropical sun. It has been the home to Naval Secretariat since 1935.
El Tajín is a word of Totonac origin meaning Place of Thunder. Many of the structures at El Tajín date from 300 - 600 A.D. although this Totonacan center is thought to have reached its peak between 800 and 1150 A.D. The study and restoration of the ruins was begun in 1924. The principal structures and conglomerates of structures are the Plaza Arroyo Group, the Ball Courts, the Pyramid of Niches, the Tajín Chico group, the Building of Columns and the Great Xicalcoliuhqui.The Pyramid of Niches, or Building 1, is the outstanding structure in this site, comprised of seven sections and a total of 365 niches, coinciding the the number of days in the solar year. In the interior holds a 14 meter long passageway and has only been partly explored.he ballcourts - and there are 17 of them that have been discovered on the site to date - present fabulous reliefs depicting the ritual of the ball game and the ball players, the Tajín Rain God, lunar and Venus glyphs, the gods of the wind, moon and pulque.There are long, columned buildings - the columns carved to relate the feats of the Totonacan heroes such as 13 Rabbit, a political figure who was considered the incarnation of Quetzalcoatl, the main deity of El Tajín; other building display colored frescoes and tablets with carved figures of the prehispanic deities.

Photo: jornada.unam.mx

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