Pátzcuaro is hidden high in the mountains of Michoacán. It is veiled from the outside world by a curtain of high pine trees. To the north is Lake Pátzcuaro, one of Mexico's highest lakes. The butterfly fishermen, who dip their nets into the lake in search of whitefish, have become a trademark of Pátzcuaro. The town retains its ancient atmosphere. It consists of largely one-story adobe or plaster-over-brick buildings with red tile roofs. The streets are dusty cobblestones traveled by horse and car. Plaza Vasco de Quiroga is Pátzcuaro's central square. Grass covers the plaza, and a statue of Vasco de Quiroga stands in its center.
On the east side of downtown is the beautiful Basilica of Our Lady of Health, the city's patron, built between 1546 and 1554. The College of Saint Nicolas, south from the basilica, was founded by Don Vasco in 1540 and now houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Archaeology, which has exhibits of carvings, pottery, weaving, and archaeological artifacts. The Cathedral of Michoacán was built by Don Vasco and was opened in 1546. Today it is the temple of the Jesuits. The House of Eleven Patios is the former monastery of Saint Catherine, founded by Dominican nuns in 1747. It is now a center for local artisans, and you can watch them work.
Many shops line the main plaza, selling all kinds of textiles, tablecloths, clothing, and more. Friday is the big market day, when Indians from surrounding villages come to sell their wares in the market square. On Fridays, the square teems with buyers, sellers, and browsers; town shops carry henequen rugs, lacquered trays, serapes, Indian masks, and wooden boxes. Pátzcuaro's lacquered trays are quite famous; the lacquer is supposedly made from the crushed bodies of purple insects, which provide the deep, rich finish and durability. |